Dr. Nelson's Veterinary Blog

Dogs are Chick Magnets

Dr Kris Nelson — Wed, 23 May 2012 15:26:02 GMT

The first time I heard one of my clients refer to his dog as a 'chick magnet', it surprised me. But the more I thought about it, the more I agreed. When I am walking, I am naturally attracted to people with pets. The pet is an ice breaker, a conversation starter for people who don't know each other.
    In 2000, Dr. June McNicholas and Dr. Glyn Collis carried out a study to determine if dogs are indeed, chick magnets.  In the first phase of their study, they had a male test subject walk alone and with a highly trained therapy dog who would not solicit attention through a park and measured the number of social interactions. Of course, the number of social interactions were the greatest when the dog was present. In the second phase, they used a new male test subject and changed his appearance from well dressed to scruffy and measured the number of social interactions he received with and without the dog. Again, the test subject received the most social interaction when the dog was present irrespective of his dress. The scientists concluded that dogs are a great catalyst for human social interaction.
    People share an innate connection with animals. Simply being around an animal will lower our stress and improve our mood. Scientists call this 'the human-animal bond.'  My next series of blog posts will focus on this wonderful relationship. In the meantime, please enjoy the picture posted below of Paul with two adorable chick magnets, Sasha and Captain!

-McNicolas, J. and Collis, G. 'Dogs as catalysts for social interactions: Robustness of the effect.' British Journal of Psychology (2000), 91, 61-70.

Dominance Based Aggression in Dogs

Dr Kris Nelson — Sun, 20 May 2012 22:34:46 GMT

    Dominance based aggression which is also referred to as impulse control aggression or conflict aggression is the last type of canine aggression. Frankly, I don't care too much which term is used as long as people understand how dangerous it is to interact with dogs with this kind of aggression. These dogs are bullies! They want to control everything and everybody in their lives. Thankfully, in my experience, this is the least common cause of aggression. Out of the hundreds of aggressive dogs I have worked with, only a handful exhibited this form of aggression.
    Here is a common history for dogs with this problem. A puppy starts to bully other animals in the family for no apparent reason. By one year of age, the dog is now targeting human members of the family, usually the youngest child. As the dog ages, they work their way up the chain of command. I had one client call me on emergency because their aggressive dog cornered the entire family in the bathroom. They had to remove the screen and escape through the window.
    What can be done for dogs with dominance based aggression? It grieves me greatly to say this but I cannot in good conscience recommend treating this kind of dog because the risk of serious injury for everyone in the family (humans and pets) is always present. In my experience, behavior therapy only masks the unwanted behavior lulling the family members into a false sense of security. Sadly, these dogs should never be trusted.  It is too often only a matter of time until they attack. Therefore, I recommend humane euthanasia for dominant aggressive dogs and adopting a shelter dog instead.  With so many wonderful dogs being euthanized every day because of a lack of shelter space, I think it truly is the only answer in these rare, but difficult cases.

Resource Guarding Aggression in Dogs

Dr Kris Nelson — Mon, 14 May 2012 03:08:11 GMT

Resource guarding is a common form of aggression in dogs. The dog protects valuable resources such as food, toys, treats, furniture, blankets, other dogs and even people.  For this reason it is also known as possessive aggression. The dog protects its possessions with a growl or stare. If the warning is ignored, they may escalate to biting.

Prevention is the key to dealing with this form of aggression. Feed the possessive dog in a separate room or kennel to make sure they can eat in peace.  Give them tiny treats that are eaten in one bite without the need to protect leftovers from others. Separate them for treats like chew sticks that take longer to eat.  I do not recommend removing the food or treat from the dog once it has been served. In my experience, this makes the dog's aggression even worse. For serious cases, I recommend putting the dog outside while their food is prepared. Place the bowl in the room or crate, remove all the other animals or people from the immediate area, let the dog in and then close the door behind them. Do not disturb them until they let you know they are finished licking the bowl. Put them back outside and put the bowl away.

For dogs who protect toys, blankets or dog beds, I would remove the object to prevent aggression. Bring out the toy for individual play time and then put it away again before encountering other dogs. If the possessive dog sleeps on the bed with its favorite human and growls at other family members, ban the dog from the bed.

In my experience, dogs can never be "cured" of resource guarding.  This behavior may be lessened but I would always be cautious in situations that may stimulate resource guarding.  Use extreme caution with young children!

Anxiety Based Aggression in Dogs

Dr Kris Nelson — Mon, 07 May 2012 04:11:21 GMT

As discussed in my prior post, some dogs become aggressive due to fear. These animals live by the slogan, "The best defense is a great offense." Some dogs become aggressive after a specific incident such as being attacked by another animal. The other common cause is anxiety. Anxiety causes fear in both humans and animals. If the dog can't escape from the anxiety provoking stimulus, it becomes aggressive.

The principal behind treating an anxious dog is simple - build up their confidence. But doing that can be challenging. As is often the case, a little common sense and patience go a long way. Here are some tips for helping an anxious aggressive dog. Please note, some severely anxious dogs require anxiolytic therapy before implementing the following steps.

Step 1: Identify anything that triggers an anxious response in the dog and avoid it. I like to have people keep a log with the following information; date, time, environment (includes temperature, noise and scents as well as objects), brief description of what happened and how the dog responded. Once a trigger is discovered, remove or avoid it to lessen the dog's anxiety.

Step 2: Create a consistent environment for the anxious pet. Knowing what comes next is a great stress reliever. Even people prefer consistency - think of how financial markets sometimes respond before a close election. Keep things as consistent as possible by following a strict schedule for feeding, playing and resting. Only the animals and people who actually live in the dog's house should be present. No visitors or guests until the dog's anxiety is under control.

Step 3: Provide strong leadership for the dog. Since dogs are pack animals, they will naturally look to their people for direction. Set a good example by remaining calm, using a gentle voice and touch. Consistently reinforce good behaviors with praise, treats (in moderation) and attention. When a dog knows you have the situation under control, it reduces their anxiety. (Please see note regarding the term 'pack' below.)

CAUTION: Providing strong leadership does not mean dominating the dog. In my experience, dominance based training will make anxiety worse, not better. In my opinion, and as a veterinarian, I find some of Cesar Millan's approach in this regard quite disturbing. Punishment teaches the dog to mask their feelings until it is too late and they bite. I would rather have a dog let me know how they are feeling with a growl than wait and bite.

Step 4: Teach the settle command. Engage the dog in something they really like to set a positive tone. Perhaps the dogs likes to lie on their back and get a belly rub. When the dog is relaxed, give the command "settle" repeatedly. Once they understand this command, engage the dog in an activity such as playing with a toy. After a few minutes of fun, give the settle command and reward them for calming down. Practice the settle command several times during play sessions before using it during a stressful situation.

Step 5:  Start desensitizing and counter-conditioning the dog to anxiety inducing triggers.  Go slow!  I cannot emphasize this enough. If your dog is anxious around strangers, start by letting them view the person from a distance. When the dog becomes anxious, use the settle command and reward them when they calm down. Slowly, bring the dog closer and closer until the friend is the one rewarding the dog. This might take weeks (or longer) in severely traumatized animals. Patience, patience, patience!

Note:  The term 'pack animal' to describe dog behavior has fallen out of favor with some behaviorists and trainers.  They believe dogs are basically loners, who only get together for brief social interactions before heading off to find their next meal. These studies suggest that dogs do not form strong relationships with other individuals, dogs or otherwise. While this might be true of feral dogs, it does not correlate with what I see in the clinics. In my experience, dogs form strong attachments to the people, dogs and other animals in their lives. They love their families! Whether their social unit is termed a pack, group, gang, click or family doesn't matter to me. The important point is that dogs seem happiest when they are part of a family.  Here's to forever homes!

Fear Based Aggression Toward Other Dogs

Dr Kris Nelson — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 16:35:52 GMT

Over the years, I have worked with many dogs who became aggressive toward other dogs after being attacked. These attacks usually occur during puppyhood when the dog is more vulnerable. Afterward, the victim is afraid of other dogs who look like the attacker.  They often freeze, look away, try to escape and refuse to eat when confronted by a look alike.  Unfortunately, the subtle signs of fear are often missed by the pet's people and not handled properly.  The fearful dog begins to bark, growl and/or snap to drive the other dog away.  With time, the fear spreads to other dogs, animals and even objects. This is when most people get professional help from a veterinarian or behaviorist.

Here are some basic guidelines for helping fear-based aggressive dogs.  Most dogs require a custom treatment protocol formulated by an experienced veterinarian for successful treatment.

First Step: Get the dog back to a neutral, non-fearful state of mind before beginning any desensitization or counter conditioning.  Avoid anything that elicits a fearful reaction. This includes any situation in which the dog feels confined or trapped (kennels, fenced in backyard while other dogs walk by outside, etc.). Some dogs are so fearful that anxiolytic drug therapy is required to calm them down.

Second Step: Teach them to give you their full attention with the 'look' or 'watch' command. Give the command and then reward them for paying attention. Start with having them look at you for a few seconds and work up to several minutes. Make sure the dog is rock solid on this command before going to step three. Be mindful of your own emotional state while working with your dog. Many dogs learn to be anxious or fearful from their human partners. Stay calm to set a good example for a fearful animal. This is especially important in step three.

Third Step: Slowly reintroduce other dogs or objects that induce fear. I like to start with objects first since they are easier to control. Place the object a safe distance from the dog.  The object must be far enough away to avoid triggering a fearful response. Ask the dog to 'watch' you and slowly move toward the object. Reward the dog frequently for good behavior. Look for the subtle signs of fear described above and back off when observed.  Be patient! I cannot stress this enough.  Let the dog tell you when it is safe to get closer.  Forcing the dog will increase fear, not lessen it.
    When the dog has mastered objects, move onto animals. Start with a friendly, smaller dog kept at a safe distance and work from there. Again, go slow and keep the fearful dog focused on you with the 'watch' command.
    If your dog is still aggressive toward a specific dog after using this protocol, watch the dog for subtle signs of aggression.  Sometimes the other dog is the problem and avoidance is the best medicine.  Think of them as the neighborhood bully.

Last Piece of Advice: With midly fearful dogs who are emotionally stable, I recommend ignoring attention seeking behavior.  Do not try this with an extremely anxious dog as it will make the situation worse. For dogs with poor coping skills, withholding human attention is devastating. Please consult with your veterinarian before using the ignore tactic with your pet.

Aggression in Dogs - An Introduction

Dr Kris Nelson — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 03:35:49 GMT

Aggression in dogs is divided into three types, dominance associated, fear associated and resource associated. Aggression may also be associated with dogs who suffer from pain or anxiety. For the next two weeks, my blogs will tackle this complex issue. This post will introduce the types of aggression. In the posts that follow, I will give general guidelines for treating each type.  Please remember, most dogs require a customized long-term treatment plan for a successful outcome.  Above all, be careful!  Take precautions to make sure everyone involved, including other pets in the family, are safe at all times.

1) Dominance based aggression - Some dogs are born with the desire to be in charge.  They start by dominating their littermates and work their way up the leadership ladder of the family as they mature.  These animals will try to dominate everyone in their family or pack including the humans.   In the end, they may even challenge the adults.  Alpha dominant dogs must be handled with the utmost caution. Please note that the theory of dominance based aggression in dogs is largely based on studies of wolves which may or may not be true. This theory which was taught when I was in veterinary school is now under debate.

2) Fear based aggression - In my experience, fear is the most common cause of aggression in all kinds of animals. The animal is frightened and bites to protect itself.  Usually, the animal will warn people to back off before attacking.  Fearful dogs will freeze in place, stop panting, refuse to eat, shake, cower, hide their head or urinate. Unfortunately, people often miss or ignore these warning signs and receive a painful bite.  Fear may originate from a traumatic experience such as being attacked by another dog, learned from a family member or a side effect of anxiety.

3) Resource guarding aggression - Dogs with this type of aggression guard things they consider important.  Food is the most common resource they protect but I know of dogs who guard beds, sofas, shady spots in the yard, toys and/or special companions.

Although it's not really a type of aggression, I always like to mention pain as a reason for biting and growling. When a dog is painful, it will growl to warn people and other animals to leave them alone. This is especially common in older patients who suffer from osteoarthritis. Please contact your veterinarian to discuss any change in behavior.

Ears and Rears - Food Allergy in Dogs

Dr Kris Nelson — Fri, 20 Apr 2012 02:37:42 GMT

Whenever I work with a dog who suffers from chronic ear and anal gland infections, I worry about a food allergy. My dermatology professor called it, "Ears and rears." When I see a patient with ear problems and impacted anal glands, especially in younger dogs, food allergy goes to the top of my rule out list. I recommend a 12 week food trial with a novel antigen or hypoallergenic diet. If using the novel antigen approach, make sure both the protein and carbohydrate source are new to the dog.

During the trial, the patient cannot eat anything but the test food. One treat can ruin the entire trial! Here are some of the common ways that food trials are ruined;

1) Treats - All treats are forbidden during the trial. All family members and neighbors must be on board with the trial. No sneaking allowed. This includes treats through the backyard fence.
2) Medications - Heartguard may not be given during a food trial nor can other flavored medications.
3) Free roaming - It is impossible to conduct a food trial on a dog who goes outside unattended.
4) Cat food, vomit or feces - During a food trial, the dog must be kept away from cat food, hair balls and the litter box.

After the trial is over, I like to introduce the original food again and see if the signs return.

2012 Desert Dog Police K9 Trials

Dr Kris Nelson — Sat, 14 Apr 2012 02:09:03 GMT

It time for the annual 2012 Desert Dog Police K9 Trials! Come to Scottsdale Stadium on Saturday April 14th and Sunday April 15th to see the police dogs and their handlers compete. Pictured below is Kaos competing at the 2011 competition. You may recall Kaos visited me in the hospital and brought great joy when I was fighting cancer. I'm glad he didn't think I was a bad person like this poor fellow in the yellow shirt! More information is available at http://www.desertdogk9trials.com/.

Announcing The 2012 Animal Charity Grant Winners

Dr Kris Nelson — Sun, 08 Apr 2012 20:29:41 GMT

It is my pleasure to announce the winners of the 2012 Animal Charity Grant: The Humane Society of Southern Arizona in collaboration with the Pima Library Foundation! This November 4th, I look forward to speaking on their behalf. This is a great example of two terrific organizations coming together to create a wonderful event for donors.

If you wish to learn more about these non-profits and their good work in Pima County, here are their links:

www.hssaz.org

www.pimalibraryfoundation.org

Around year-end, I will announce the application process for the 2013 Animal Charity Grant. Congratulations to this year's winners!

Treatments For Cats That Meow All Night

Dr Kris Nelson — Sun, 01 Apr 2012 02:23:18 GMT

My last blog post discussed how several medical and behavior problems may cause nighttime meowing and yowling.  This post will discuss treatments and how to get your cat back on your sleep/wake cycle.

First, have the cat examined by a veterinarian to find medical problems that might be causing the meowing.  In my experience fleas, hyperthyroidism, pain and dementia secondary to aging are the most common reasons.  If your pet isn't sterilized, schedule a spay or neuter right away. Those hormones cause a host of undesired behaviors.

If no medical problems are discovered, it is time to move on to a behavioral evaluation. Set up a video camera and record your cat's nighttime behavior. Is another pet in the family blocking their access to valuable resources (food, water, litter box or resting areas)?  What is the cat doing right before the meowing starts? Were they looking out the window or sniffing the front door? Keep a log of your cat's daily routine for one week and then look for patterns.

Here are some remedies for common problems:
1) Hyperactivity after eating - Giving snacks or feeding a high carbohydrate diet is like giving sugar to children.  Feed canned food which is lower in carbohydrates one hour prior to bedtime.
2) Meowing due to hunger - Cats on a strict diet will often beg for food. To curb this behavior, get an automatic feeder. They even come with ice packs to keep canned food fresh. Set the feeder before the humans retire for the evening at the opposite end of the house. When hunger strikes, the cat will smell the food and take out their frustrations on the feeder instead of the humans.   When it finally opens, the cat thinks begging from the feeder worked.
3) Territorial protection - If your cat is running between windows or marking the door, look for another animal in their territory.  Some cats are highly territorial. They view any foreign cats as intruders that need to be driven away immediately. To stop this behavior, keep neighborhood cats away from the doors and windows in your house. Motion activated air cannisters work well for this.
4) High prey drive - Some cats want to chase, catch and kill anything that moves.  See #5.
5) Lack of exercise/boredom - This is a big problem for all cats which leads to obesity as well as undesirable habits. As my professor in veterinary college stated on several occasions, "A tired animal doesn't get into trouble." Before bed, exercise the cat. My cats love kitty feathers dusters.  Play with the cat until they can't chase the clump of feathers anymore. This also works with cats who like to bite feet through the covers.  Schedule regular play times to give your cat an outlet for their energy. Playing with your cat everyday will also build a stronger human-animal bond. I predict you will come to enjoy this time together as much as your cat does.

Why Cats' Meow And Yowl At Night

Dr Kris Nelson — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 03:32:33 GMT

Recently, I have had many complaints from people about cats who keep them up all night. The people are desperate for help due to lack of sleep.  Here is a list of the common causes of meowing or yowling that I see broken down into two categories. I will address treatments in my next post.

Medical:
-Hyperthyroidism or excess thyroid hormone may cause vocalizing and hyperactivity. This is more common in cats over 7 years of age.
-Testicular tumors that secrete testosterone.
-Intact (not spayed or neutered) animals looking for a partner. This is the season when love is in the air.
-Hormonal stimulation in animals that were improperly sterilized.
-Drug side effects.
-Pain especially from osteoarthritis. I had one patient that had trouble getting into the litter box. He would stand beside it and meow until someone put him inside.  Cutting down one side gave him pain-free access.
-Pruritus causes by allergies or external parasites. Fleas, bed bugs and mites tend to be more active at night.
-Dementia and brain tumors.
-Hypertension which is often found with renal insufficiency in older cats.

Behavioral:
-Anxiety which often occurs as cats age and their senses diminish.
-A cat that is protecting their resources or territory will make a lot of noise. This often occurs when the resident cat sees or smells a cat outside their home.
-Boredom due to lack of behavioral enrichment. Cats need places to rest, eat/drink, use the litter box and play. Sometimes, we forget the need for play.
-Lack of exercise is a huge problem for indoor cats. Besides causing unwanted behaviors, it also leads to obesity. As my professor taught me in veterinary school, "A tired animal doesn't get into trouble."
-Hyperactivity related to high carbohydrate diets.  In some ways cats are just like kids, feed them a high carbohydrate (sugar) snack and watch out.

African Gray Parrot With Squamous Cell Carcinoma

Dr Kris Nelson — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 00:44:53 GMT

In January of 2012, I noticed some blood in my parrot's cage.  Ni is an African Gray parrot who picks her feathers. I assumed she had just pulled another one, but closer inspection revealed a bloody mass in the area of her preen gland (uropygial gland). The next day, I performed surgery and removed the mass. Unfortunately, the biopsy results confirmed my worst fear. Ni had a very aggressive form of cancer known as squamous cell carcinoma and the tumor cells extended all the way to the margins.

Squamous cell carcinomas that occur in the area of the uropygial or preen gland are usually seen in birds that are on poor quality diets. The lack of vitamin A causes squamous cell metaplasia that eventually changes to a carcinoma. Ni has always enjoyed a good diet. She eats a mixture of vegetables, fruits and organic pellets. This couldn't possible be the cause. . .or could it?  I started Ni on Harrison's Sunshine Factor, hoping for the best.

Two months have passed and I am happy to report that Ni is doing well.  Right after surgery, her incision broke down as the tumor remnants started to grow again.  After two weeks of vitamin A supplementation, the tumor started to shrink and Ni no longer required medication to control her pain.   I suspect the Arizona heat may have effected her otherwise great diet during transport.  In any event, as a veterinarian and bird lover, this is a wonderful development to share with all of you who care about birds. If your bird is diagnosed with squamous cell carcinoma, be sure to ask your veterinarian about vitamin A supplementation. Below is a picture of the tumor before I removed it.

Elevated Food Bowls For Dogs

Dr Kris Nelson — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 02:45:08 GMT

Pictured below is my dog, Buddy, having dinner from an elevated food Bowl. I like elevated feeding stations for dogs with megaesophagus, osteoarthritis and cervical disc disease.  In my experience, elevated feeding stations also work well for dogs with anxiety. They seem to feel less vulnerable when standing.

Unfortunately, a study performed at Purdue College of Veterinary Medicine, found that elevated food bowls might be associated with a greater risk of gastric dilation and volvulus (also referred to as bloat).  Other risk factors include increasing age, family history of bloat and eating rapidly.

Source: Glickman, L.T., et al, Non-dietary risk factors for gastric dilation and volvulus in large and giant breed dogs, J Am. Vet Med Assoc. November 2000: 217(10):1492-9.

Tucson Festival Of Books

Dr Kris Nelson — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 04:10:18 GMT

Join Dr. Nelson at the Tucson Festival of Books, March 10 and 11, 2012 at the University of Arizona. Stop by booth #243 on the central mall or join the fun at a panel dicussion. More information at tucsonfestivalofbooks.org.

-Animal Behavior-Mild to Wild: Saturday, March 10th from 11:30 to 12:30 in room 111 of the Chemistry building. Dr. Nelson will be joined by Sy Montgomery, author of Birdology and Dr. Patricia B. McConnell author of Love Has No Age Limit: Welcoming an Adopted Dog into Your Home. Author information at symontgomery.com and patriciamcconnell.com.

-Animals and Healing: Sunday, March 11th from 1 to 2pmin the Koffer room. Dr. Nelson will be joined by Dr. Allan Hamilton author of Zen Mind, Zen Horse and Stephanie Marohn author of What the Animals Taught Me: Stories of Love and Healing from a Farm Sanctury. Author information at zenmindzenhorse.com and stephaniemarohn.com.

Advice For High School Students Who Want To Be Veterinarians

Dr Kris Nelson — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 03:03:10 GMT

Some people are called to their profession at a young age. I decided that I wanted to be a veterinarian when I was four! I called it an animal doctor because I couldn't say veterinarian.  For all of you 'early deciders', I put together a list of tips that will help you achieve the dream of becoming a veterinarian.  You have chosen a wonderful profession. GOOD LUCK!

1) Grades-Grades are very important.  When you apply to veterinary school, you must list your overall grade point average as well as your grades in required courses from college. Although your high school grades are not counted, it is important to establish good study habits now. Work hard and aim for an A in every class you take.  ***Please note: Your grades need to be good, not perfect. When I got my first B in college I thought my dream was over. This is not true.  You do not have to have a 4.0 to get into veterinary school but the higher the better.

2) Classes-Take all the college prep classes you can.  If you take challenging classes in high school, it will help you in college.  Select as many classes as possible in math and science. Veterinarians use algebra all the time to calculate drug dosages. We also need training in statistics and calculus to evaluate research results.    In science, make sure you take chemistry, biology and physics.  Learn the basics of these subjects now to gain an advantage in college.

3) Experience-Experience is broken into two categories for veterinary college, animal-related and veterinary-related. Veterinary-related means experience working under the direct supervision of a veterinarian. The animal-related category includes work with animals in any setting. Obviously, working with a veterinarian is best but difficult to do in high school. So, focus on getting experience with animals of all kinds. Here's some ideas:
    - Join 4-H and do projects with animals and veterinary medicine.
    - Walk dogs or cuddle cats during summer break at your local animal shelter.
    - Participate in the annual wild bird counts.
    - Volunteer at a rehabilitation center for the species that interests you. Examples are raptors, reptiles, parrots, wild animals.
    - Foster an animal for a rescue group.
    - Train a puppy for an animal assistance program.
    - Take riding lessons at a stable to learn how to handle horses.
    - Work on a farm with cattle, hogs, poultry or sheep.
    - Volunteer to take care of a classroom pet.
    - Go to veterinary camp to learn about animals.

4) Extracurricular activities-It is true that veterinary schools like well rounded individuals with a variety of interests. But make sure you give yourself plenty of time to study. If your college G.P.A. isn't high enough, the veterinary colleges won't even look at you to see all the other wonderful things you did.  So use this time to explore and develop your interests but be careful not to over commit.  Leave yourself plenty of time to study and also have some fun with your friends. Learning how to balance the different areas of your life now will help you in the future.

You can get more tips at vetschoolapp.com.  To learn what a year of clinical practice is like for a small animal veterinarian, I'm a little partial but believe you will enjoy Coated With Fur: A Vet's Life.

Scottsdale Arabian Horse Show 2012

Dr Kris Nelson — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 04:07:12 GMT

Last weekend, my husband and I attended the Scottsdale Arabian Horse Show. Wow, we saw some fantastic horses! In an outdoor ring, yearling fillies strutted their stuff. The poise of these youngsters amazed me. Then we walked over to another outdoor ring for a reining competition. The agility and flexibility of the Arabian breed is wonderful. They can stop and turn on a dime. Last, we headed to the main show ring for an English Pleasure class. If you enjoy horses, I strongly recommend a trip to the show in 2013. Kids under twelve years of age are free. A cowgirl's hat's off to Scottsdale for hosting this great event - it shows why my hometown of Scottsdale is "The West's Most Western Town".

The Best Material for Pet Food Bowls

Dr Kris Nelson — Thu, 23 Feb 2012 02:34:37 GMT

When it comes to food bowls, pet owners have three basic choices - plastic, ceramic and metal (stainless steel). The following list gives the pros and cons associated with each material.

1) Stainless steel- Stainless steel is a durable material that is great as either a food or water container. It is easy to clean and comes in a variety of sizes, perfect for all kinds of animals. I like it because it is durable, dishwasher safe and hypoallergenic. Unfortunately, stainless steel does have one major drawback - shocks. In dry environments, static electricity builds up when dogs and cats walk on carpeting. The animal receives a nasty shock when they touch the bowl. To prevent this, place metal bowls in non-carpeted areas. Also, remove metal tags from collars.

2)  Ceramic- Ceramic dishes are easy to clean and relatively inexpensive.  The main disadvantage is breakage. The sharp fragments may cause severe injuries. I have seen several lip, tongue and paw lacerations from broken dishes.  Also, make sure any paint or glazes on the piece are safe for animals. Watch out for lead.

3) Plastic - Plastic is cheap, lightweight and extremely durable. My parrot has had the same bowl for fifteen years. Unfortunately, many animals are allergic to plastic.  The most common sign is dermatitis of the chin and muzzle.  Pictured below is a dog who received an automatic food dispenser with a plastic bowl for Christmas.  This dermatitis developed in two weeks.

McDonald's Agrees to Phase Out Gestation Crates in Pork Suppliers

Dr Kris Nelson — Fri, 17 Feb 2012 17:26:33 GMT

I will never forget walking into a large pork producing farm during my swine rotation in veterinary school. I saw pregnant sows in small crates, the crates were so small that the pigs couldn't even turn around. They could only move a few inches forwards and backwards. Growing up in Minnesota farm country, I was used to seeing pigs in large pens with access to the outdoors. When I expressed my horror at these conditions, the farm staff was unmoved.

This week, McDonalds announced it will phase out pork from suppliers who use gestation crates. Thank you McDonalds! Large corporations like McDonalds can make a huge difference in the humane treatment of animals. I would also like to thank Wendy's, Sonic, Harris Teeter, Quiznos, Whole Foods Market, Chipotle and Safeway who have been praised by the Humane Society of the United States for their collective decisions to avoid suppliers who abuse animals. I would also like to thank the Humane Society of the United States for your tireless work on behalf of animals. Keep up the great work!

More information is available at:
http://www.dailyfinance.com/2012/02/15/mcdonalds-works-to-take-animal-cruelty-off-the-menu/
http://www.humanesociety.org/news/press_releases/2012/02/mcdonalds_takes_action_02132012.html

Join Dr. Nelson at the Tucson Festival of Books

Dr Kris Nelson — Sun, 12 Feb 2012 15:38:23 GMT

Join Dr. Kristen Nelson, veterinarian, speaker and author of Coated With Fur: A Vet's Life at the Tucson Festival of Books. This year's festival is March 10 and 11, 2012 at the University of Arizona. Stop by booth #243 on the central mall as I would love to meet readers. I will also be delighted to share information about the next book in the series; Coated With Fur: A Blind Cat's Love.

Learn more about animals during a panel discussion titled "Animal
Behavior - Mild to Wild" on Saturday, March 10th from 11:30 to 12:30 in room 111 of the Chemistry building. Dr. Nelson will join Sy Montgomery, author of Birdology and Patricia B. McConnell author of Love Has No Age Limit: Welcoming an Adopted Dog into Your Home. More information at http://tucsonfestivalofbooks.org/. The festival draws over 100,000 visitors so it will be a fun weekend celebrating literature!

February is Pet Dental Month

Dr Kris Nelson — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:44:06 GMT

The American Veterinary Medical Association has declared February "National Pet Dental Health Month". Pets struggle with a variety of dental problems including periodontal disease, alignment issues, and fractured teeth in carnivores and overgrown teeth making it difficult to eat in herbivores. Besides causing pain, infection from the mouth may spread throughout the body infecting everything from heart valves to the kidneys. Therefore, it is vital to check your pet's mouth frequently and perform home care. Remember, "Pets need dental care, too."

Pictured below is a cat with a painful, fractured lower canine tooth that I found on physical examination.