Litter Box Basics
Indoor domestic cats usually urinate twice per day and defecate once per day. In my experience, there are two golden rules when it comes to litter boxes. First, it is important to have at least one box per cat. More is better, but one box per cat is the absolute minimum. Ideally, it is best to have one box more than the number of cats in the house. Second, cleanliness is next to Godliness. Some fastidious cats consider a box dirty after one use. It is important to recognize that each cat will have their own litter box standards just like people do with rest rooms. It does not matter if you think the box is clean enough. It is the cat's opinion that counts (isn't that always the way with cats). Remember they have a much better sense of smell than we do.
After the two golden rules, everything else is based upon the cat's and owner's preferences. Here are a few other points to consider:
1) In general, I recommend a soft clumping unscented litter. In my experience, this type of litter satisfies the needs and desires of most of my patients. Having said that, I know some cats who prefer the traditional clay litter and others who like the pelleted variety made out of recycled newspaper. If your cat seems unhappy with their existing litter, experiment to see what they truly want.
2) For older cats or one with an orthopedic problem keep one side of the box low to make it easy to enter and exit.
3) Shy cats seem to prefer covered litter boxes or a box tucked out of sight.
4) Make sure the box is the right size for the cat. Some cats walk straight in and go. If the box is too short, the feces or urine end up on the rug in front of the box.
5) Use an unscented, dust-free litter for cats who suffer from allergies or asthma.
6) If your home has multiple levels, keep a box on each level for easy access.
7) Following declaws, use shredded paper until the incisions are well healed. This is usually two full weeks.
After the two golden rules, everything else is based upon the cat's and owner's preferences. Here are a few other points to consider:
1) In general, I recommend a soft clumping unscented litter. In my experience, this type of litter satisfies the needs and desires of most of my patients. Having said that, I know some cats who prefer the traditional clay litter and others who like the pelleted variety made out of recycled newspaper. If your cat seems unhappy with their existing litter, experiment to see what they truly want.
2) For older cats or one with an orthopedic problem keep one side of the box low to make it easy to enter and exit.
3) Shy cats seem to prefer covered litter boxes or a box tucked out of sight.
4) Make sure the box is the right size for the cat. Some cats walk straight in and go. If the box is too short, the feces or urine end up on the rug in front of the box.
5) Use an unscented, dust-free litter for cats who suffer from allergies or asthma.
6) If your home has multiple levels, keep a box on each level for easy access.
7) Following declaws, use shredded paper until the incisions are well healed. This is usually two full weeks.
I have two indoor only cats, age 14 and 15. One of the cats started doing 'their business' on the floor instead of using the plastic container they have always used. Once a month the container is washed with soap, rinsed and then soaked in pine-o-pine mixed with water for 1 to 2 hours. Could the plastic container absorb some of the pine-o-pine odor and stay in the container? Can you tell me how I can get this cat to stop going on the floor? I have had the cats since birth. They are just like part of the family. I would really appreciate any information you can give me.
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There are many reasons why older cats stop using their litter boxes. Since I am not sure from your note if they are urinating, defecating or doing both on the floor, I will cover the usual causes of each.
Inappropriate Urination:
Older cats may develop a number of health problems that cause increased thirst and urination. Diabetes with secondary urinary tract infections, kidney disease and hyperthyroidism are the most common problems I see. Each one may be diagnosed with simple lab tests. If the results are normal, then I look into behavioral causes. Was the brand of litter changed? If you are using the same brand, did the company change the formulation of the litter? When dealing with behavioral causes, one must differentiate urine marking from preference issues as well as dementia in older animals.
Inappropriate Defecation:
As cats age, they are prone to constipation. The cat goes into the box, strains for awhile and then exits with a piece of feces still in the rectum. Eventually, the cat lies down and cleans it away, leaving a 'present' for the owner. (My own cat used to do this before I changed her food.) Most of these cats respond well to increasing the amount of fiber and water in their diet. I have also had good luck with feeding them one tablespoon of canned pumpkin twice a day. If the constipation is severe, stronger medications are available through your veterinarian.
If the stools are soft, the cat might not be able to make it to the box in time. I would start with a fecal sample to rule out parasites. If that is normal, then I would recommend further tests to rule out other medical problems.
Inappropriate Urination and Defecation:
If your cat is doing both on the floor, consider the following: First, older cats may develop arthritis making it difficult for them to get into the box. Cut down one side for easy access. Second, look for any changes with the litter box that may offend the cat. Stop using the pine-o-pine soaks. The smell might be offensive to your cats. Third, make sure your cats feel safe inside the box. I have had cats refuse to enter because another pet in the household corners them in the box. Always have at least one box per cat in a safe place.
Unfortunately, accidents may also be a sign of dementia. Please see my post on this subject for further information.
I hope this helps. Good luck with your cats!
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